Wednesday, January 12, 2011

On the road and Hindu temples - from Heather

We are leaving on a train tonight - an overnight ride to Tamil Nadu - this is the state directly east of Kerala.  In Tamil Nadu, we will be the guest of Family Village Farms.  This is an orphanage and women's home that Plymouth supports and several of our congregants have adopted children from there.  In my backpack, I am carrying two kickballs and a pump from the Fry family to give to their adopted children.  I am wondering if the children have ever played kickball and am determined to teach them.

I am hoping that internet access will be as accessible in our next location as it has been in Kottayam - but if it's not, we will try to seek one out.  Be patient with us!

Some of our recent adventures:

Yesterday, we spent the afternoon visiting some local Hindu temples.  There was one in our town of Kottayam and one about 10 km outside of town. 

I found these spots intriguing - these are very different spots than Christian churches.  I am still trying to discern the spiritual experience I had there.  I have visited temples before in both India and in the US - and some places I have had deeply spiritual experiences, and some I have felt a bit uncomfortable or even unsettled.  Yesterday was somewhere in between. 

Both of the temples were mostly outdoor spaces.  There were large outer courtyards.  People, mostly men, were lounging outside of the temples.  Many of them wearing a wrap around their lower body and no shirt.  I think that if you go into the inner sanctum of the temple (which we were not able to do), men cannot wear shirts.  This is how the temple priest dresses.  I am not sure of the dress codes for women.  I have read that they must be completely covered.

After crossing through the outer courtyard, we then went through a door in a wall that surrounded an inner courtyard - also an open air courtyard.  You cannot wear shoes inside this door of the temple - we learned the hard way that they will kick you out.  Some of our group did not get to see the inside courtyard of the second temple, because they were unsure where to take off their shoes.  They got kicked out.  A couple of other members were wearing socks - they were allowed to stay at first, but eventually got kicked out too.  Sara and I seemed to take off our shoes at the correct time and were not wearing socks - we were able to stay, but the temple security kept looking at our feet to make certain.

Once inside the walled courtyard - there was a path that let to an enclosed building in the center of the courtyard - this is where we were not allowed to go.  One of the pastors here called this space, "the holy of holies".  In fact, none of the visitors seemed to be able to go there at those moments, as they were locked off.  But I could see that there was some type of flame inside.  And I suspect either a statue of a god or an element of nature.  Someone told me that there was a large rock inside of the 2nd temple spot.  I think that Hindu temples often grew up around a sacred natural spot.

There was a sidewalk around the closed off sanctuary.  Along the sidewalk, there were little shrines, where we saw people offering prayers and offerings.  In the first temple - we saw banana leaves with some type of natural offerings on them.  In both temples, there were small statues with tumeric covering them - I assume as an offering.

At the first temple, two nice women motioned to us for how to proceed around the temple.  It was greatly appreciated, as we were unsure about how to proceed and if we were doing anything that was offensive.

The biggest surprise we had was when we turned the corner at the back of the first temple and we saw an elephant!  Yep, you read that right - there was an elephant in the back corner.  Peter and I had a conversation about how we hoped it was tethered in some manner - because it wasn't behind bars or in a cage or anything, just kind of hanging out on a cement pad.  I then noticed that it was tethered with a chain around it's back leg.  Our group took lots of photos, so I am sure you will see it upon our return.  I wasn't sure if we were supposed to be taking pictures, as a temple person called over to us when he saw the cameras out.  But most of the group was so enthralled with the elephant that they didn't notice.  I then saw him kind of give up on trying to get their attention, in sort of an "oh well" way.  I felt a little better when soon after, the same people from the temple came up to us and started taking our pictures, asking us where we were from and being very friendly. 

I asked why the elephant was at the temple - the best I understood was that it was a gift to the temple (and you thought it was a big deal to donate stained glass!) and used for spiritual processions, among other things.  And that it was a very sacred part of the temple. 

The second temple had cows in the same spot.  They inspired a bit less awe in our group.  But I saw a temple worker being very kind and caring for the cows - I am sure they were revered as well. 

The other interesting site at the 2nd temple was the throngs of pilgrims that were there.  Since the moment we've arrived in India - we have seen men dressed in black, mostly shirtless.  There is a major pilgrimage -happening right now - our guide book says it is the largest pilgrimage in the world - and it's only for men.  The pilgrims were stopping at this temple on the way to their main stop.  It has been interesting to see them.  First of all - they are so exotic looking.  All in black, several of them have religious markings on their forehead, no shirts, no shoes.  But some of them have spoken to us - and we have realized they are men (and boys) from all parts of india, all ages, and all different socio-economic backgrounds.  I have been told they may be on our train tonight - maybe we'll get to know a bit more about why they are journeying.

I am not sure what more to say about the temples - exept for they are fascinating and clearly are part of an ancient religion and culture that is still thriving today.  A culture that is so very different from the one that I am from.  And I suspect that is why I am a bit uncomfortable sometimes when I am in that space. But when you are able to witness the adherents - see them give offerings, bow and prostrate in prayer, come on pilgrimage or even take care of a cow - it is clear that they too, like us, are searching for that thing in the world that is larger than us.  Praying to God for the same human reasons we are praying.  Making a space for the holy in their lives, just as we are making space. 

Thank you again for your prayers.  We leave in a few hours.  Hopefully, our next letters will come soon.

Peace,
Heather
 

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